Putting this as a top-level comment. credit to @srowen for the answer: Use the Maven Central library ( version 0.5.0) instead of the Spark Packages version (0.1.1)
That was the issue - the Spark Packages version is 0.1.1, the maven central version is 0.5.0 - changing to use the Maven package made the whole thing work.
I've installed the spark-xml library using the databricks spark package interface and it shows attached to the cluster - I get the same error (even after restarting the cluster.) Is there something I'm missing for installing the library?